Review: Zeppelin Cafe

(Credit: Josh Thomas)

For weeks now, I’ve driven past the old Heitzman’s bakery on the corner of Burnett and Hickory and been teased by a sign in the window stating, “Zeppelin Café — Coming Soon.” As a recent transplant to the ’217, I was excited by the possibility of a new spot to get a bite and a pint within walking distance of my house.

So I was pleasantly surprised when I saw signs of life — and beer — in the establishment on a recent Thursday afternoon. Inside, the hardwood floors, brightly colored walls, huge windows and clean, open atmosphere created an inviting atmosphere that would be fit for a Bardstown Road hangout.

Each table in the room has a clear view of one of the three flat-screen TVs in the room, but we opted instead for two vacant barstools, where we were promptly greeted by co-owner Nick Cain.

Zeppelin only sells beer for now, owing to the high cost of a liquor license, but its present selection is generous. On the 13 taps are usual suspects like Guinness and Blue Moon, but also brews from every local brewery in town.

I grabbed a She-Devil IPA, a spicy pale ale from Browning’s ($4.75), while my roommate opted for a Sierra Nevada. And since our visit fell during the 4-to-7 p.m. window, happy hour knocked a buck off the price.

Cain told us the menu isn’t at full capacity yet, but he gave us a look at what will be the final version. It’s got the standard burger, wings, rings and salad offerings, but also has a small assortment of above-the-bar entrees, like an 8-ounce bistro filet soaked in a spicy citrus marinade ($11.95) or the Asian sweet pepper-marinated Hanoi Chicken ($9.95).

On our visit, though, both my roommate and I decided on the Buffalo Springfield bison burger, a third of a pound of bison topped with your choice of cheese. The burger was juicy and delicious, but hoisting the taste over the top was the soft, flavorful bun, which Cain said they bake themselves using some of the equipment left behind by Heitzman’s.

Curious about the name, and taking a cue from the classic rock monikers on the menu, I assumed that the restaurant was named after Led Zeppelin. According to Cain, however, that’s not necessarily the case. They just wanted a German name to go along with the area, he said.

“Somebody suggested ‘The Hindenburg,’ and I was, like, ‘You know that went down in flames, right?’ So we went with ‘Zeppelin’ instead,” he said with a laugh.

And after my visit, I hope its fortunes resemble those of the band, not the doomed dirigible.

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