- 2923 Goose Creek Road, Louisville, KY, 40241
- (502) 339-8070
- Overall User Rating:
- (1 rating)
- Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Saturday 8 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Sunday 9 a.m.-8 p.m.
- Official Web Site:
There was a time, not so long ago, when independently owned homestyle restaurants were the norm in America.
Back then, kitchens were run by cooks, not chefs. A diner didn’t have to look to hard for an order of beef and noodles, a bowl of bean soup or beef liver cooked on a flat-top grill and smothered in fried onions (back then, “fried” was the operative verb, and no self-respecting cook ever “seared” liver or “caramelized” onions). Nowadays, you can find good homestyle ethnic cookery in every section of the city. But finding a decent chicken potpie? That’s something of a challenge.
Happily, Louisville still has a few places that answer the call, including Goose Creek Diner, a grand bastion of old-school grub at old-school prices. The setting, too, is old school, though with a brisk modern feel: Walk through the door and you’ll find counter seating on the left and an array of colorful booths and tables on the right (to get to either, you’ll walk past a display case filled with tall pies and luscious looking brownies). Service is friendly and bustling, and though you might not get your coffee or iced tea refilled as quickly as you’d wish, you’ll get plenty of smiles.
The appetizer list includes fried green tomatoes (and this is the right season for their tangy crunch, $5.49), hand-breaded onion rings ($5.49) and a handful of other goodies. There are soups, salads, pastas, sandwiches, a slew of rotating specials and a nice collection of entrees that come with all the appropriate side dishes. The most pricey items on the menu ring the tab at $14 (a grilled 10-ounce sirloin and a grilled salmon filet), but most of the menu is priced under $10, meaning a two people tuck into a full meal for under $20.
If chicken potpie is on your wish list, the Goose Creek version will do the trick. It has all the old-fashioned elements: chunks of white meat, peas, carrots, celery and potatoes in a white sauce. And lurking under that golden puff pastry crust is an appetizing, ever-so-faint aroma of curry ($8.99, with a bowl of soup or a crisp Caesar salad).
Grilled center-cut pork chops (two to an order) are juicy and pleasantly seasoned; and it doesn’t hurt that they wear the bold, golden marks of the grill. Add a bowl of white beans seasoned with cubes of ham and a pile of leafy, mellow collard greens and you have a pretty fair meal for $10.99.
Sandwich offerings include pulled barbecued pork ($6.99), fried cod ($7.99) and a couple of burger options ($6.99-$7.99). And the regular menu includes a nice assortment of pasta dishes that swells to great length during the Thursday night pasta special, when one order of pasta is full-price and the second is half-price.
The menu also includes dinner options like country-fried steak with mashed potatoes and white gravy ($8.99), chicken livers ($7.99), crab cakes ($10.99), salmon croquettes ($10.99) and a vegetable plate that draws from an extensive list of old-fashioned sides that includes macaroni-and-cheese, stewed tomatoes, country-style green beans and cinnamon-buttered apples ($6.99).
Alas, on one recent visit, a plate of roast beef Manhattan ($10.99) was as dismal as it was abundant. “Tender roast beef,” said the menu. But in reality, the thin slices of rubbery, glossy meat lacked the grain, texture and flavor of good roast beef, and smothering it with a pool of undistinguished brown gravy didn’t really compensate.
Still, a good slice of pie goes a long way to make things right, and those pies in the display case are not to be ignored. And I had no beef with what came next: an enormous wedge of coconut cream pie — tall, light, and sweet.