Review: Baxter Station

Mediterranean salad with an optional piece of grilled salmon is among the offerings at Baxter Station.

(Credit: Kylene Lloyd)

At first glance, the Peter Bodnar murals looking down on the bar at Baxter Station Bar and Grill look like the Chicago skyline as seen from an el station. That's partially right -- they're views from an elevated train station. But the station was located just a few blocks away, at the junction of Baxter Avenue, Lexington Road and Liberty Street on the L&N line. And the murals are a reminder of the days when Louisville passengers rode the rails on trains with names like the Dixie Flyer and the Pan-American.

Those days are gone. But Baxter Station still has the feel of a traveler's way station. For 19 years, it's managed to stay rooted in its community while also keeping up with influences from around the globe. The decor is full of train-themed touches -- a model train that spins around a ceiling-bound track, a booth that was apparently taken from a luxury dining car, assorted signs and knickknacks, and a bronzed railroad spike hanging on the wall. Seating is comfortable and uncrowded, and includes a pleasant fan-cooled patio that's pleasant even when the mercury hits 85 degrees.

Chef Mark Albert's menu, which changes seasonally, isn't massive in length -- but it caters to a full range of American tastes -- from fajitas to Reubens, from Cajun sauce piquante to Mexican chipotle peppers. And though it's hard to discern a culinary theme that brings everything together, the good news is that prices are affordable, flavors are bold, and quality is high.

Crab cakes, for instance, are stuffed with lump crab meat, but lightly enough packed that they arrive at the table with a fine, airy texture and a gently crunchy surface that releases the scent of onions and celery at the touch of a fork ($9.95).

Steamed mussels, served in a garlicky white wine sauce, were plump and pretty ($9.95). And a bowl of butterbean soup was irresistible -- tender beans, chunks of diced roast pork and slivers of green onions in an addictively spicy broth ($3.95).

A bowl of Moroccan mushroom soup didn't measure up -- it was spicy enough, with a pleasant smoky kick, but had the thick texture and lackluster look of soup held too long on the stove.

Still, no other dishes reflected any such neglect. A Mediterranean salad -- baby greens, kalamata olives, roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, celery and red onions tossed in a spicy, feta-infused vinaigrette -- would have made a fine meal in itself ($8.95), but a chunk of handsomely grilled salmon ($4.95) and a glass of beer made a perfect summer dinner -- and the draft beer selection includes a fine collection of local, national, and international craft beer, including offerings like the red ale from Cumberland Brews on Bardstown Road.

The sandwich list includes 10 offerings under $9, including the customary burger and fried fish variations. A sumptuous grilled cheese sandwich built of pepper jack cheese had all the melting comfort of an old-school grilled sandwich, plus the luxurious textures and rich flavors of roasted red peppers and olive tapenade ($8.95, with fries). And the blue plate lunch specials -- served on classic three-section plates -- are well executed and generous enough to satisfy even the heartiest appetite -- as I learned when I was defeated by a jalapeno cheeseburger, a heap of true mashed potatoes and a nice pile of spicy greens ($7.95).

More than a dozen entrees cover all the usual options, in treatments that run from jerk-rubbed salmon ($15.95) to grilled vegetable fajitas loaded up with cilantro and summer squash ($12.95). Cajun linguini -- al dente pasta, generous slices of dense Andouille sausage and a spicy cream sauce -- built a long, slow heat that simmered pleasantly on the tongue.

Pastry chef Amy Berry's cakes are not to be missed. Recent offerings included carrot cake and chocolate Irish cream cake, and both had the old-fashioned feel of hand-made batter, and icings that favored intense, buttery flavors over the simpler indulgence of sugary sweetness.

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