Review: 211 Clover Lane

Chef Troy Schuster has an affinity for winter vegetables, as evidenced by his Yukon potato gnocchi. (Credit: Mary Ann Gerth)

Meals at 211 Clover Lane have always been excellent, from summertime lunches next to the open French doors to the city's finest Sunday brunch in the picket-fence-lined garden, especially wonderful on the first warm weekend of spring.

This time of the year, the candlelit tables tended by a knowledgeable (but never stuffy) staff are so inviting that diners feel like honored guests being let in on a special secret.

Best of all, chef Troy Schuster's dishes have reached a level of sophistication that makes 211 Clover Lane a four-star address.

Consider his variation on the "angels on horseback" hors d'oeuvre. The four plump fried oysters ($9) are wrapped in pancetta, rather than American bacon, and sautéed in crisp batter rather than served on toast points. Result: an elegant balance of flavors, even without the addictively good lemon aioli served with the appetizer.

Schuster has a true affinity for winter vegetables, and the Yukon potato gnocchi ($16) was a perfect mélange of savory dumplings with brussels sprouts, tiny artichokes and black trumpet mushrooms dressed in lemon parsley butter.

The grilled rack of Colorado lamb, a much more flavorful beast than the New Zealand lamb found on many local menus, was scented with rosemary and served with cannellini beans and braised endive.

Proprietor Andrew Smith is always on the lookout for interesting new bottles for his boutique wine list, and he has recently added a local gem.

A bottle of Norton ($40) from the Smith-Berry Winery in New Castle, Ky., paired very well indeed with the entrees. Winemaker Chuck Smith's art was evident in the beautifully structured red wine, which displayed both rich fruit and a dry finish. The only better wine being bottled in Kentucky today is Smith's Norton Reserve, but it's harder to come by.

Orange-scented rice pudding, raspberry crème brûlée and chocolate pot de crème were all available for dessert. But it was one of the unique house-made ice creams, flavored with Amarula ($4.50), that made the perfect ending to a memorably perfect meal.

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