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610 Magnolia chef kicked off the episode in the final four
After cooking up creative cuisine since November, including pancakes for Pee-wee Herman and “wicked” treats for Oscar-winning actress Charlize Theron, Louisville’s Edward Lee made it to the final five contestants on “Top Chef: Texas” before being eliminated Wednesday night, just one week shy of the finals.
We caught up with the 610 Magnolia chef, whom “Top Chef” judge Gail Simmons called “a fighter” and “an amazingly talented chef,” on Thursday, less than 24 hours after he was told to “pack your knives and go.”
Lee dished about cookbooks, Theron, the possibility of opening another restaurant in Louisville, and what his run on the Bravo reality cooking show was really like.
You went a long way on “Top Chef: Texas.” Many Louisville foodies and fans of 610 Magnolia followed your kitchen exploits every week. How did you feel at the end of the final episode?
I’m good, I’m good. I’m licking my wounds (laughing). I was obviously sad. I really wanted to make the finals. There were a lot of things that were outside of my control … the Last Chance Kitchen (competition) and the immunity to the finals … a lot of things that I think threw a wrench in the plan … also Whole Foods not having oysters, all that stuff.
Are you really mad at Beverly for coming back to the show after winning the Last Chance Kitchen competition? (Lee cracked that he would be angry if she kept him from landing a spot in the finals.)
A lot of that’s for show. Put it this way: I would have been mad at anyone who came back. It’s not directed at Beverly. At the end of the day, it was fair and square. My dish was the least impressive of everyone’s (Wednesday) night, so I have to swallow the bitter pill and take it.
What difference has being on the show already made in your life as a restaurateur?
The exposure is incredible. (I’m) having more of a public life, I guess. I just came back from Atlanta and took 20 pictures in the airport with people. That’s something I’ve never had to deal with before. One of the things that shocked me the most was to realize how many young people watch the show … young as in like 8-year-olds and 10-year-olds. That adds a huge layer of responsibility in what I do if young people are sort of seeing me as a role model. It definitely makes a difference. ….
The outpouring of affection I got (after the elimination) was really moving. At the end of the day, everything was encouraging about the show. Hopefully there’ll be other projects in the works. I loved doing the program and I loved doing the competitions. I think it will just open more doors. This career in food … used to be that as a chef you had one option: You cook behind your oven until the day you die. … Now this career has so many things, whether it’s writing books to doing television … or doing consulting. To me it’s exciting to look at the future and see what possibilities can come out of this.
Is there a secret to winning? How hard was it really?
From a culinary standpoint, I think this is easily the most difficult thing that I’ve done. This was day in and day out, and when you’re in the thick of it, it just seems like it’s never gonna end. You’re in a constant state of anxiety because you don’t know what’s coming next.
Being in that situation so long, it really wears you down. I’ve always said that the competition is about culinary talent, but it so much more is also about your psychological stamina … to be able to sort of take that abuse day in and day out. It’s very difficult to be scrutinized, day in, day out, for something you have to do in one hour. Psychologically, it is the most difficult thing that I’ve ever done.
It’s also a great thrill because if you can accept it for what it is, it’s just a great opportunity to go out there and be scrutinized … an incredible opportunity to be judged and rated by the titans of your industry.
What did you think of the judges and their critiques?
The judges for the most part are really wanting to see everyone do well. They really are there to say: “Hey, listen, this is what you have to do to get better. This is what we want to see.” … In that aspect of it, it’s very fair. …
I thought Emeril was incredibly encouraging, and it was nice to see him there. He’s such a hero for most of us. He started this whole thing. To see him there and to see him give you a thumbs up, it was really encouraging.
You competed against a group of very accomplished chefs from across the country. Did you meet any friends you’ll keep up with? Any chefs you’d just as soon not cook with again?
I think we’re all going to keep in touch. It’s kind of like war. … You go through it with a bunch of people. Even if you’re not friendly with them … you’ve shared this incredible experience with a very small group of people. I think for the rest of our lives, we’ll have that. We’ll get together and be able to talk about it.
Having said that, I got to be really good friends with Ty-Lor. I made really good friends with Paul. I thought the guys from Moto were really fun. I promise you, if I’m in anyone’s city, I will look them up.
What food inspiration did you take from the show that might show up on the menu at 610 Magnolia?
I don’t how much eventually is going to land on my menu. I don’t see 610 Magnolia ever serving chili, for example. The spirit of it will always be there, but culinary-wise, I think we had a pretty good identity of what we were doing before the show. I think we’re gonna stick to that.
What was the highlight of the show for you?
There were lots of highs. I really enjoyed the Charlize Theron one. … I think all the chefs enjoyed the Charlize Theron episode. I thought the Pee-wee Herman one was really fun. Just having Pee-wee there just kind of broke the tension a little. … Everyone was laughing throughout that whole thing just because it was so ridiculous. I also like the Aretha Franklin one.
What do you think was the best dish you cooked on the show? The worst?
The best dish was, hands down, the game dinner where I did the quail dish. I thought that dish was just really nice. The worst dish is obviously the one that got me sent home (braised pork belly and smoked oyster crema with pickled vegetables).
You were quite the quotable chef during the aside interviews in each episode. Do you think it was an accurate portrayal of your personality or was it dramatized?
I’m definitely a trash talker. People who know me know that it’s never meant with any kind of malice at all. I just think that life is more interesting if you can trash talk. At the end of the day, they (the producers) don’t put words in your mouth. If anything, it’s probably more intensified only because we are living with a very small group of people … in a constant state of anxiety and a constant state of tension for the over six weeks that it took to shoot. Your personality just comes out. … You can’t hold it back. I think it was pretty accurate the way they portrayed people.
You took some flak from Bravo commentators a few times during the season. For example, for your lack of sympathy for Sarah, who was taken to the hospital for heat exhaustion. What would you say about that?
Sarah and I are very good friends, and we laugh about it now. During the heat of the moment, I was giving her a lot of crap. Here’s the thing: If I didn’t think she could take it, I would not have said those things. I know she’s a competitor. She’s as tough as anyone, man or woman, that I’ve ever met. Given the same situation … if the roles were reversed, she would have been giving me just as much. ... At the end of the day, we respect each other, we love each other. It’s good drama.
What was it like seeing yourself on TV every week?
It takes a little bit of time getting used to, and I’m probably still not used to it. Of course, right as you get used to it … that’s when I get eliminated. … I think it was probably more fun for my wife (Dianne) because we basically started a new Wednesday tradition where we sit around with a glass of wine and watch the show. She would just laugh at me for all the stupid stuff I said on the show. She would punch me every time I said something stupid.
What’s it like getting recognized and having fans now?
I don’t know how many cellphones my picture is on (laughing). It’s part of the job. It’s what we signed up for. I’m happy to do it. I’m happy to come out and sign and take pictures.
The recognition and exposure has been great. I think people here are very respectful with privacy. Really, it has been nice … all the support and the way people have been just kind of rooting for me. I honestly felt like the whole city kind of was behind me. That’s really a special feeling. I really want to say thank you to the whole city of Louisville for supporting me.
Is it true that you are planning to open another restaurant in Louisville?
I would like to. There’s nothing set in stone. Definitely, we do have an intent … definitely in Louisville.
Tell us a little about your upcoming cookbook. What kind of recipes can we expect?
The cookbook is going to be published by Artisan Books. It will be released in spring of 2013. I can’t say right now. It’s too early, but I am busily testing recipes right now, and I am writing my own cookbook, so it’s taking another layer of time. It’s going to be a wonderful book, and we’ll have a big outpouring of press when the book is released.
We heard you’ll be the guest of honor cooking at an event in Washington, D.C., in March. Do you plan to be doing a lot of touring and events now?
I’d like to keep it to a minimum. Obviously my restaurant and my life here is top priority. … Eventually when it comes time to promote the cookbook, I’d like to be able to go out there and sell cookbooks all over the country.
If “Top Chef: All Stars” came calling, would do you it all over again?
I would have to think about it. I couldn’t say I would do it or I would not do it. I’d have to see where I am in my career and what I’m doing at that moment and see if it’s right.
Reporter Christa Ritchie can be reached at (502) 582-4144
ABOUT EDWARD LEE
Age: 39.
Hometown: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Education: A graduate of New York University with a degree in English literature. Lee chose to pursue a culinary career, instead of a literary one, when he was 22.
Career: Chef and owner of 610 Magnolia, an upscale restaurant in Old Louisville.
Accolades: Lee is a multiple James Beard Award semifinalist who has also been featured in Gourmet, Esquire, Southern Living and other national publications. No stranger to culinary television, Lee appeared on an episode of the Food Network’s competitive cooking show “Iron Chef America” in 2010, defeating Iron Chef José Garces. The Cooking Channel also featured Lee on an episode of “Foodography” that was devoted to the wonders of pork.
